Working With Color Lashes

by Sylwia Walus July 28, 2020

Working With Color Lashes

Working with colored lashes can be so amazing and fun! (Why do you think we have come out with so many at Lashbox LA?! They are some of my favorites!) While playing with color can be exhilarating, there are some basic rules that need to be followed in order to ensure we end up with the result we are looking for, and not some kind of madness we want removed before our client walks out through that door. I break them down into two categories: lashes for them, and lashes for you. Let me explain.

“Lashes for them”

These are lashes for our clients who want a hint, pop, or subtle splash of color. They are looking to be adventurous and are willing to trust you with their aesthetic. Woohoo, time to play! We need to remember now that for a client to wear lashes like this and still be flattering, they need to still have a dark brown or black look at the base to line the shape of their eye and remain flattering for an everyday look.

Option 1. Ombre lashes all the way. This is the easiest way to introduce color to a client! Whether it is a full set or a fill, most ombre lashes stick to dark black or brown at the base, and fade into a colorful tip. They are much more subtle than a stark stripe of color introduced through a whole section of the lash line, and will wear like standard black lashes unless in bright or direct light. They’re like a fabulous little secret and the color doesn’t take over their look at any time of the day or night. My suggestions here are our Mermaid ombre lashes (black, with either blue, purple, or green tips!) or our Safari ombre lashes (a dark chocolate brown fading to a wide variety of colors inspired by the Serengeti sunset.)

Option 2. Use any color of lashes your client desires - go (a little) wild if you like, they won’t overtake the face this way! Create your lash map using black lashes of your choice in volume or mega volume and cover the middle and bottom layers of lashes. Finish the set by putting fans of a single color on the whole top layer, reducing the length of each section of the may by 1mm. This way your client will see her deep, dark lash line when she looks in the mirror, but with the added flirtiness of others seeing that bold color when she looks down or blinks. A great way for you to get your clients ready for spring, summer, autumn, or any holiday or event of the year. Our Unicorn or Flamingo lashes have been my go-tos for solid colors lately!

Option 3. “Highlights” Use a mix of colors throughout the middle lash layers, ensuring you keep the top and bottom layers black. With whatever map you choose, this will add extra dimension to the density of the lash line, and create a beautiful, and still subtle effect for every day. My recommendation here? Kitten Wisp lashes all day long.

“Lashes for you”

This is artistic work specifically for your portfolio, or for the craziest of our clients (who are secretly our favorites ;) We can choose any color, vibrancy, or combinations and it is all a go, but we still want them to be flattering, professional, and let’s be real- as clean and perfect as they can be. This is my advice:

Choose 2 or 3 colors of lashes. Black can still be one of the colors if you like, but try to choose colors that flatter and help define the beauty of your model. For example, if she has warm undertones and eye color, choose lashes that are within that color family, and the same applies for cool tones and neutral colors. This step is particularly important, so take time to examine her eye color and skin tone, and consult with her about makeup colors that are usually flattering to her. A safety net here is going with the same color family as her natural eye color.

Option 1. For a clean, bold look, divide the lash layers into two or three sections. Use one main color on each section. For example, green lashes on the inner ⅓, blue lashes in the middle ⅓, and purple lashes on the outer ⅓. If you want to keep that liner look you can still use black lashes on the lowest layer.

Option 2. For a strong, multidimensional look, choose two to three colors and, for example, apply 3 green fans next to 3 blue fans, and alternate across the whole lash line. Again, if you want a dark lash line, use black lashes along the lowest layer. Just be careful to lash the lowers until they are 100% full or you will risk creating a visible gap in the lash line.

Some rules to help you through: When working with colored lashes you need extra volume for them to really be visible. If applying a black lower layer using 0.07 lashes these can be 3D, but the colors added need to be 5D. If using 0.06, the black lower layer should be at least 5D with the colors 7D+. Mega volume lashes don’t have these basic diameter rules because the fans will be visible either way. Use clear glue for clean, seamless work that keeps the lashes their true, vibrant color from base to tip, or use black glue if you are working to achieve a deep lash line or liner affect.

If you want to create colorful lashes without too much thinking about mixing colors and lashing layers, Kitten Wisp lashes are your go-to. You can apply them for all lash layers, or just the top, whatever works best for you!

Creating a full, beautiful set of colored lashes is for sure for advanced lash artists. You have to not only think through each layer, diameter, and fan width, but also reach for the right color at the right time, and stick solidly to your mapping. Any and all of these looks will turn out the best if you can place lashes consistently half a milimeter away from the lash line. That’s it from me for now! Just remember, while these types of sets can be daunting, we all could use an extra challenge now and then, and a little color in our lives!


VP of Product Development
Master Trainer

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